Peacock Collection ’09: BWOF 07-2009-118

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Pattern: BWOF 07-2009-118 Dress

Pattern Description:A shirred bust section, a wide hem flounce, a halter-neck strap plaited from cotton tape – this dress of lovely printed batiste is irresistable and you will be too when you wear it!

Pattern Sizing: Burda sizes 34-42.  Increased to a 46 and again in hips to a 50.

Fabric Used: Lightweight cotton and silk from Downtown LA

Notions Used: 1/2″ Bias Tape

Pattern Alterations: Increased to a 46 and again in hips to a 50. Eliminated the bottom hem flounce.  Added 7 more rows of shirring from 9 to 16.  Used elastic thread instead of zigzagging over elastic.

The Good:

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  • Loved the Fabric.  I found this fabric in Downtown LA at one of the shops I frequent (name escapes me).  I had seen this fabric last season and wanted it then, but resisted.  When I went earlier this season I had seen a woman buying it and decided that I had waiting long enough.  Luckily for me he have a little over 2.5 yards left.  PHEW!!  This is definitely one of those fabrics I would have regretted NOT buying.  It is lightweight and so soft…I wish we had feel-o-vision as I would love for all of you to touch it.  It also have a lovely sheen that makes all the vibrant colors pop just that much more.

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  • Easy to make.  I had never done shirring before with elastic in the bobbin but it was quite easy.  I even wound my bobbin using the machine…shhhh don’t tell.  Actually the key was to skip the tensioning disc and instead go from the spool, through the first step as if to thread the machine and then to the bobbin.  This will give just the slightest tension and the machine will do the rest.  This is hard to explain but I will show a picture if anyone needs it.   The hardest part was braiding the straps, which was not that hard,  but did make my OCD flare up.  I have not braided in years, even then I only braided hair, and now we know just one more reason why I wear my hair o’ natural…LOL!

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  • Strapless bra again.  I mentioned with my last dress the strapless bra phenomenon at Chez Chic.  This dress was actually my first foray outside sans bra straps.  It was totally fine but I would have never worn this style without the backup safety plan of the halter straps.  The shirring was tight enough, but not for my liking.  Given my liking would have probably produce suffocation so halter straps prevented such a fashion faux pas 🙂

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  • Shirring.  Once again, easy and quick with great results.  I have some other garments in mind in with shirring involved.  Especially because I bought two spools of elastic and barely scratched the surface on the first spool.

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  • Straps.  Despite the fact that this drove me a little batty and finally required me to have a “good enough” attitude, I love the straps.  They are made out of folded 1/2″ single fold bias tape that you then make into 1/4″ by folding.  At first I was kinda mad as I was thinking “why didn’t Burda just say buy 1/4″ double fold bias tape?  But then I thought about the uneven folding of the tape and recanted…a little.  If you are not as OCD maybe trying the 1/4” double fold bias tape would not be so bad.  After braiding I gave it a good steam to flatten them a little.  They turned out very nice and sturdy

The Bad:

  • Not having a size A bra cup required the addition of shirring lines.  The pattern only called for 9 lines but that barely made it to the middle of my bust.  In the end I ended up with 16 lines of shirring but could have probably gotten away with 12-14 lines.  Either way, make sure to compare the front AND back lengths of the shirring to make sure it fits your bust.  Mine was a little too long in the back with the shirring that is why I say 12-14 would have been optimal.

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  • One of the main reasons I liked this pattern was for the front panel detail.  It is a little panel of the unshirred fabric with a piece of the braided strapping tacked down at the top and bottom.  Afterwards I realized a few things… The inside of the flat panel edges are unfinished and the braid piece likes to shift.  To solve this dilemma I tacked down the strap to the fabric panel and then did a loose slip stitch to tack the flat panel to the shirred bodice.  I think Burda should have told you this, but then again they don’t tell you to finish your edges either so I guess they thought we would figure it out.

The Ugly:

  • I had originally intended for this dress to be a maxi dress as well.  However, while cutting I didn’t quite measure the length right.  Given I made the pattern exactly the same length as the 116 without flounce but it would have been nice to have yet another maxi.  I love this fabric so much that I saved the cut off portion and will be using it to line a little purse I plan to make.  Waste not Want not.

Sorry for the mispellings, grammatical errors, or rushed thoughts as I am babysitting today.  To anyone who knows me is looking incredulously at the screen right now and wondering if I have gone insane, however, I am still and auntie of 10 neices and nephews so I can babysit when in a pinch.  However, my family knows they need to mark their calendars as this is a truly rare and special day…LOL  🙂

Peacock Collection ’09: BWOF 07-2009-116

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Summer is here and I have been itching to make some summer dresses, especially a Maxi Dress.  Enter Burda with the July issue and I was off and running.  With fabric in stash, this pattern was cut and sewn almost immediately upon receipt of the issue.  Although some BWOF devotees did not find the July issue inspirational, I am in LOVE!

Pattern: BWOF 07-2009-116 Maxi Dress

Pattern Description:The perfect dress for your dream vacation. It‘s long, flowing, sun-backed and colorful. Contrasting straps trim the plunging V-neckline, creating a pretty décolléte.

Pattern Sizing: Burda petite/half sizes 17-21.  I made a 23.

Fabric Used: Knit fabric found at M&L in the discount section.

Notions Used: None

Pattern Alterations: I increased the size to a 23 and then again at my hips to a 25. Took in the top portion of the bodice by 1″ and took off 5″ of length at the bottom. Did not use the suggested zipper in the side seam

The Good:

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  • Burda patterns are made for me.  They only takes minor adjustments unlike the Big Four patterns.  Although I had to take in the top portion of the bust area by an inch and flaring back out to the size 46 at the skirt connection point and shorten the pattern by 5″, I still call this a winner.   Just wait until I actually get GOOD at making these adjustments.  Then there will be no stopping my rampage through my Burda magazine collection.
  • I love the fabric although the colors have been hard to match jewelry wise.  I got this in at M&L fabric in the discount bin.  The colors did not sing to be at first because Black is not really a color I love, but the border print was fantastic.  I wish I would have done a better job cutting the pattern out with the print in mind, but originally this was supposed to be a muslin.
  • Maxi stylings.  Ok, I know that some fashionistas do not like  Maxi’s and especially dislike them on petite women.  However, I absolutely love the style and had to have it.   It just feels so comfy to me.  Probably because it is only a step or two away from being a nightgown…LOL!  Anyhoo,  I am hoping the abundance of  skin up top balances out all the fabric on the bottom half.  I tried to get the suggested day wear ankle length for my maxi but after 3 adjustments with the hem, I gave up so it is not quite as short as they suggest.

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  • Strapless Bra.  Ok people.  I am 32 and this is my first time sporting a strapless…LOL!! I just have a major fear of wardrobe malfunctions and the girls, if let loose, are probably liable to hurt somebody…LOL! However, this dress called for it and it is one of my 101 in 1001 goals so here I am!  I actually wore another dress out already with strapless stylings (soon to be posted).  This dress is particularly good because essentially the bust area works as a second bra of sorts.  SCORE!

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  • Super comfy.  Did I say that already?  That is because it is so true!

The Bad:

  • Excessive Length.  I have already told you about the 5″ that I cut off, but I reiterate because this is a petite sized pattern made for 5’3″ women.  I am 5’3″ and 1/4 inch and the original length was dragging the floor.  I was especially sad because I cut the pattern with some really cute details at the hemline that had to be hacked off in order to make the dress wearable.  Ah well, still cute 🙂

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  • A little maternity in the side view.  Yup, kinda looks like I am a stubby stick from the side.  I probably could have adjusted the bust more at the bottom to have it cinch in the front a bit more, but then I think I would have needed the zipper to get in and out of it.  Laziness won over fit this time.

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  • The strap thickness is thinner than what is shown in picture.  I actually thought I made a mistake and kept looking closer and closer at the picture.  The models straps just look much wider than mine.  Once again, still cute, but not what I expected.
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The Ugly

  • While making this dress I decided to google “sewing with twin needles” where I came across an excerpt from Power Sewing.  While perusing the advice my eyes fell on a passage regarding sewing knit fabric with the blue banded twin needle instead of the red to prevent skipped stitches.  WHAT?  There is a difference?  Why yes!  So I went out and bought one at my local sewing shop, as Joann’s did not have them and/or I have never seen them there, and it sewed like a dream.  All inspired by the ease of it all I decided to attach my straps with the same needle.  One spool located thread snarl later and SNAP!  No more twin needle 😦
  • I adjusted the gathering in the front to be a little more gathered in the middle.  The original design was just a little bit of gathering and evenly dispersed.  I ended up getting a little bit of a weird gathering where the middle black part starts.  Nothing big, just a little personal pet peeve.

All in all, highly recommended so you better get started so you don’t miss the summer heat 😀

Week In Chic: 6/28

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Sewing… the last stitches of the yellow jacket.   I know I know…every week I say the same but this week is the week of buttonholes and then TA DA!!! Done.  I don’t normally build this much pomp and circumstance around a project but man, that topstitching nearly KILLED me!  I have to wait until Tuesday to make the buttonholes because I hate the ones my machine makes, I don’t have the right size for my buttonholer attachment, and I am too cheap to take the jacket to the tailor to have him put them in.  Le Sigh.

Playing with… my new sewing machine!!! No, not the one you already know about…but another one!! There will be a forthcoming post all about that.

Knitting… nothing right now.  I started the mini sweater but haven’t made much progress because I am just not loving the yarn pattern combo.

Eating… crab!  my favorite food!  My mom is bribing me over this weekend with the promise of swimming and crab.  With the thermostat hitting in the upper 80’s this weekend how could I resist?  (please note: I see my mom EVERY weekend…she is so spoiled 🙂 )

Buying… more fabric!! I bought the most gorgeous and scrumptious feeling double faced wool in both a black/gray color and mustard yellow!  I had been looking for some mustard yellow wool since last season! The black and gray combo (imagine swatch below with gray instead of red because they are now all out of the one I bought)  will be used to make Burda 08-2007-111 cape.

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I don’t know what to do with the mustard yellow though.  I had planned to make Burda 08-2008-115 in a purple but maybe I should use the mustard instead

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…decisions decisions

Thanking my Lucky Stars… Not just because I have a job but because of where I work too.  My old job has laid off quite a bit of staff  and mine has yet to go that route.  It may not be the best company but I do really like it there…despite the occasional complaint 🙂

Planning… for my 4 day weekend!!! I can’t WAIT!!! It is a stay cation type of weekend but man I have so much planned in the way of crafting.  CAN’T. WAIT!

K everyone, see you later in the week!

Week in Chic: 6/14 Edition

Organizing… Everything via computer!! That has been my thing this weekend.  I pared down my blog categories and actually started using tags and I transferred my sewing pattern collection from my Peacock Chic Flickr to a Flick site of its own Peacockcouture.

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This is where I have chronicled all my BWOF and Big Four patterns so I can use tags to search my collection when planning my next project.  I love it! Especially with my iphone making the internet so handy.  If you want to use it too, go for it.  All the hard work is done…might as well share it 🙂

Sewing… my yellow burda jacket still.  I got the collar done and facings on, now I just have to join the two and do lots and lots of topstitching.  Actually I don’t know if the word “JUST” is the right term since this jacket has been an on and off adventure for quite some time.

Knitting… on my clapotis.  I am only a few rows from being finished so expect a finished object post soon.  Now I just have to figure out whether to work on WIPs or start something new

Photographing… nothing really.  My 365 set has all but fizzled out as a constant thing.  I don’t know when it happened but it just did.  I still want to keep up with the photography aspect of it so I might have to change my view from 365 to just chronically those days that mean something.   I also need to work on my grandnieces pictures that I took weeks ago and on the tulip farm pics and on the Maker Fair pics and on the aquarium pics…oy vay!

Eating… homemade microwave kettle corn!  I had a hankering for kettle corn and I cannot stand the microwave kind you get in the store (fyi –  it is made from sucralose not sugar due to potential burning…yuck).  So I merged this kettle corn recipe with the microwave popcorn in a paper bag technique and voila!  Kettle Corn!

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Watching… nothing…specially due to the digital switch over.  I don’t have cable and have been using antenna service.  I did get the digital box converter but my antenna is not the right kind to work with the new system.  Errr…now I have to get a new antenna to watch broadcast tv.  Thank goodness for TV via internet.

That’s all folks…Have a great week!

Week in Chic

IMG_3465_filtered-1All right people. I am a Macro blogger but my blogging juices are just not what they use to be. Mainly because neither is my crafting. However, I always go through the day thinking about things I SHOULD blog about, but I get mired in the details of the perfect post. So in the day of Micro blogging I figure it is okay to give you little glimpses into my mind without TOTALLY boring you to death. So I am going to try the once a week “I’m alive!” that sums up my random thoughts and activities for the week.

Sewing…BWOF 02-2009-112 in yellow! The dark purple I originally had planned was a little too lightweight and shiny. I am making good progress

Knitting…my clapotis. I think I am going to make it longer than 12 repeats so expect to see this on the list for a while. I also started a February Lady Sweater which I have mixed feelings on. I have basically gotten to the buttonholes which is only row 7, got stumped and then stopped.

EatingSoy chorizo! This is my new favorite foodie compromise. I love chorizo but haven’t had it for years due to the fat that oozes out when cooking it. Imagine my surprise when I saw it at Trader Joe’s. I even saw it at the mexican market which says something. I am totally hooked

Listening toContagious on ipod during crafting. This is really a good audiopod series that became a book. For all you scifi/thriller readers I highly suggest it, for all those who don’t read, try out on audiopod.

Lost in Crafty Hedonism

So my number 1 fan, also known as BFF or Jguyver, reminded me that I was slacking on my blog posts.  Given I had already been feeling the twinges of guilt from not posting for a while.  However, lately I have been very me focused to protect my sanity 🙂  Too much to do makes for a crazy Monique.

Said selfishness, or should I say hedonism, has resulted in lots of TV watching, quite a few pounds gained, and surprisingly enough…knitting!

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Yup people I have actually finished something.  Well, it was half finished since last week when I ran out of yarn.  I ordered it last Friday and it came today after being miss delivered to my neighbor so you will be seeing an FO soon!

While I waited, ate everything, and watched countless hours of TV, I also started a Clapotis! This is being knit double stranded with some Knitpicks Shadow that I snagged during our yarn swap last year.

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I am normally not one to start something when I have a perfectly good project already on the needles, but I do believe that 2009 is going to be the year of the knitted accessories.  I am in need of that instant gratification that only small projects can give and I just don’t have time for the lovely sweater patterns I have been eying.  Besides I have other hobbies that have gone neglected as of late. Sewing for instance…

This weekend I plan on tracing and making a muslin for this beauty. BWOF 02-2009-112112 I have some deep purple cotton sateen calling out to this pattern.  There are so many great things in the February BWOF!  These are the issues that make me love BWOF so much!!

Peacock Collection ’08: Burdastyle Franzi Vest

Pattern: Burdastyle Franzi Vest

Pattern Description: Cropped Lined Vest

Pattern Sizing: Size 34-44, I upsized to a 46 and petited the pattern using BWOF measurements

Fabric Used: A woven with stretch and poly for the lining

Notions Used: 3/4″ buttons

Pattern Alterations: Petite Alterations, left out the faux pockets

The Good:

  • I love Love LOVE this vest.  I have already worn it two times and need to make more shirts that match it so that I can wear it even more.
  • This pattern was easy peasy despite the fact that it took me forever to finish because of my need for the perfect buttons

  • Speaking of perfect buttons, I searched high and low for buttons and finally just settled with the buttons I have.  However, I was not in love with them until they accidentally fell over upside down on my vest and I saw the near shimmery, near perfect color match on the underside.  BINGO!! So the secret is…turn over those buttons, you never know what you will get 🙂

  • The pattern is FREE!!!  Gotta love free and the gracious nature of the Burdastyle designers.  I think the fit and sizing is almost, if not exactly, the same as BWOF.  I know I petited a cropped vest, but if I hadn’t it would have really hung low on me like a real vest.

  • I like my contrasting topstitching and the turned out lapel.  I contemplated not turning out the lapel and going with the more subdued gray but then I realized that this was a cropped vest so showmanship is the way to go.  I think it really makes the vest

The Bad

  • My lining fabric was a little hard to work with, nothing major, just had to really pay attention to not snagging or running the fabric while sewing.

  • Bust darts.  I really hate pointy bust darts.  I used to think it was my sewing ability and would sew and resew in the hopes of the point going away.  However, this I stumbled on this tutorial and I thought OHHH Duh!  I am still working on getting them right but practice hopefully makes perfect.
  • The roll line on my lapel was a bit of a pain because I did not mark it at all because I wasn’t planning on turning out the lapels.  Not a biggy at all.

The Ugly:

  • That this vest has thrown be into a vest spiral.  I have to make more MORE I TELL YOU!!  More of these and more of others.  I have a slew of patterns to get to.  I hope this vest craze does not die out too soon 🙂

P.S. If you haven’t figured it out yet, you can always tell how much I love a project by how many pictures I take.  I figure it is more temptation for you to make it 😀

Vogue, vogue, vogue!!

For all you ladies that wanted modeled shot to go with the review…here you go!!!

Complete with full model spin and an excerpt from Madonna’s “Vogue” as the soundtrack…if you sing it in your head 🙂 . If you need a refresher course here is the youtube video

Greta Garbo, and Monroe
Dietrich and DiMaggio
Marlon Brando, Jimmy Dean
On the cover of a magazine

Grace Kelly; Harlow, Jean
Picture of a beauty queen
Gene Kelly, Fred Astaire
Ginger Rogers, dance on air

They had style, they had grace
Rita Hayworth gave good face
Lauren, Katherine, Lana too
Bette Davis, we love you

Ladies with an attitude
Fella’s that were in the mood
Don’t just stand there, let’s get to it
Strike a pose, there’s nothing to it

vogue

vogue,

vogue,

Vogue!

Ta Da!!!

Next up…The dress


Peacock Collection ’08: BWOF 02-2008-117 Coat

Update: If you would like to see modeled pictures see this post

Coat Front View

Pattern:Burda World of Fashion 02-2008-117 Coat

Pattern Description: As lightweight as a dress … Numerous rows of smocking (that is actually quite easy to do) sculpt a feminine silhouette in the current X-line which is particularly becoming for petite women!

Pattern Sizing:
Burda sizes 17 – 21. I modified the pattern to get a size 23.
Fabric Used: black stretch cotton sateen with white cotton floral stretch fabric for accents on the collar, cuffs and hem. Both were bough at Michael Levine for $3.00 a yard. The floral fabric was the inspiration for the two color coat.

Notions Used: fusible knit interfacing, Pellon 934 Fusible Fleece, 1/4 double fold bias tape, size 10 black snaps


Time to Make: May 2-May 9 (7 days). Since I am a newbie to BWOF patterns. The instructions would throw me for a loop which made me take mental health breaks often. But ultimately it was the Hong Kong finish that consumed the majority of the time.

Coat Back View

Pattern Alterations and/or any design changes you made

  • Changed the pattern to account for a size 23. On average the difference between the 21 and 23 was about 1/2″ everywhere. I used a compass (no not the one for direction, the other one). To measure off the varied distances needed for the new size.

Coat Collar ViewCoat with Alternative Collar Styling

  • Changed the monotone coat into a duotone coat by cutting off the front facing and hem facing and adding 5/8″ seam to both sides to account for reattaching them to the coat. I also cut one side of the collar and collar band in each color. The cuffs were easy and needed no adjustments for the second color.

Hong Kong Finish Inside

  • I added Hong Kong Finishing to all the seams, except for the attachment of the second fabric at the hem and facing. I used my serger for those as I wanted small, non-bulky seams.
  • Used only 3 sets of shirring elastic around the waist because I am a bit short waisted but large bummed 🙂

Coat Front with Snaps and Shirring focus

  • Used size 10 instead of the super expensive big ones. Plus I wanted more control of placement. I also think I will add 4 more snaps to run until it hits the hem as I like the structured pettycoat effect and it tends to crumple a little at the bottom without support.

Coat Side View

The Good:


  • Love the details of this coat. The top stitching is what attracted me to this coat the most. I just really like how it makes the coat stand out whether it is monotone or duo tone like mine. The cinched in waist due to the shirring coupled with the flair also gives you that super tiny waist feeling…even if it is just in your head 🙂 I even like the detail of the attached snaps. It is all about the hidden treasures.

Shirring Inside

  • My gadgets! Instead of McGyvering my way through the shirring, I went all Inspector Gadget and busted out with my new “go go gadget” shirring/cording foot. I dreaded the idea of having to make sure I didn’t zigzag over the elastic and after finding out that the thin elastic sewing thread was no match for my medium to heavy weight fabric, I knew the elastic was the only way. So I ran out to my local Singer shop, plopped $10.00 down and got me that cording foot. It was a lift saver and I highly recommend it.

My label

  • I finished one of the four pieces of the Patternreview.com mini wardrobe contest AND made my first official piece for the Peacock Chic Collection 2008! I love my new labels!

The Bad:

  • BWOF instructions were pretty good. The fact that I could understand them really mean something but some items needed some extra clarification such as:
    • attaching the cuff (see bottom of post)
    • attaching the hem facing
    • the notions used(see top of post).
  • I still need to put in the shoulder pads. I actually think the coat needs then because of the shaping in the raglan sleeve. It seems ill fitted without them. I tried to cover mine and mistakenly serged the shoulder pad into the seam thinking this was a good idea. WRONG, the added bulk makes the seem obvious through the fabric. Back to Joann’s I go to buy some more 😳

The Ugly:

Snap Closures

  • For some reason, placing those snaps thwarted me multiple times. It started to become painful at the end but now they are all fine and lined up.



Conclusion:

I would highly recommend this pattern to anyone that wanted a very unique and stylized coat.

Tips/Tricks/Techniques (click on the pics for the details):

Some Goodies

First off, a :mrgreen: BIG THANK YOU :mrgreen: to everyone for the wonderful compliments on my McCall’s jacket. You gals are the best and your comments alone made the whole ordeal worth it. Admittedly I haven’t worn it again due to the fact that I need to do laundry so I have something to wear it with 😕 . Guess I need to get crackin’ on that matching skirt I had planned.

Second, I wanted to show you the load of goodies I found during a trip to Downtown L.A. two weekends ago. I found a store, among the countless many, called Journal Fabrics. I normally hate Downtown L.A. due to the massive crowds of people and the messy stores. This store I found to be less crowded, I found a very helpful and bargain making salesman, and the store was organized. So I went to town on the shopping. $50.00 later and here are just a few of the wonderful finds I found on my shopping spree:

Click Picture for fabric descriptions and a closer look…

Lastly, here is another little goody I have for you…a teaser of my almost finished 02-2007-117 Coat.

I only have a few more details to tidy up on it but I am loving my modifications and can’t wait to share it with you. But it will have to wait because the weather is being uncooperative and I am hard at work trying to figure out the next item in my wardrobe 😳 .

Yes, people, the ideas keep changing and it is driving me crazy. The entire reason for my trip to Dowtown L.A. was to find THE fabric for this wardrobe. Now I am back to square one with 18 days to go. Keep me in your crafting prayers 🙂

My Master Plan…Mwah ha haaaaa

Ok, it is not to take over the world…that comes later. Instead, I plan on participating in the Patternreview.com mini wardrobe contest that starts today! Here are the rules of engagement:

THE RULES

This is a contest to create a 4-piece wardrobe in 4 weeks (May 1 – 31). Patterns may be drafted, tweaked, and muslined before the contest date, but fabric for the pieces entered cannot be cut till the start date of the contest (May 1).

Those pieces should fit the following framework (there are actually 3 but I chose this one:

1 bottom, 1 dress or jumper (overdress), and 2 tops – 1 may be a jacket. If the dress option is chosen, it need not be worn with the other garments in the wardrobe, however it should tie to the rest of the wardrobe in theme and possibly be compatible with the same handbag or shoes or accessories.

WINNER: To be determined by popular vote. Official voting criteria will be posted at a later date, but will be based on (and these are listed in no particular order): Wardrobe versatility (is it wearable and do pieces complement each other well?), garment construction/ skill of design and craftsmanship, designer creativity, and presentation. Voting will begin on June 1st and end on June 10th.

PRIZES: One first prize: A Sewing Machine sponsored by Greenberg and Hammer.

For the intermediate sewer this might not seem daunting but for me it is quite a challenge and an impending adventure. The reason that I decided to take up the gauntlet for this challenge is that back in September 2007 I talked about creating a collection of garments. It was good intentioned but never materialized so this contest has offered me my redemption. It seems manageable and helps me to look at the big picture…The collection. So here are my proposals, I will create a storyboard later.

THE INSPIRATION

The Fabric – This is the thing that started it all. I found this fabric on a recent adventure for Michael Levine. I just couldn’t pass it up. I am usually not a florals person but this one just called to me. I just HAD to have it…plus it was cheap inexpensive.

The Theme – The fabric coupled with the BWOF 02-2008-117 pattern that I contemplating immediately made me think of more feminine times and more elegant wardrobe combinations. Audrey Hepburn is all of that and one of my favorite movies is Funny Face. My wardrobe will be a lose interpretation of this theme, but it definitely helps to weed out and ground my many pattern choices.

THE WARDROBE

The Jacket – Burda WOF 02-2008-117

As lightweight as a dress … Numerous rows of smocking (that is actually quite easy to do) sculpt a feminine silhouette in the current X-line which is particularly becoming for petite women!

The Dress – B5181

Dress with lined, close-fitting bodice and slightly flared skirt in three lengths: above mid-knee, lower calf or below ankle. Center back zipper.

The Top – S4047

Misses 1950’s Retro Top & Sash

The Bottom – S4047

Misses 1950’s Retro Cropped Pants or Skirt

So there it is the grand master plan. Wish me luck and all that jazz. I will keep you all posted! 31 days left and counting.

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P.S. I also found out that it is Women’s Clothing Sewing Month at Sew Mama Sew. How much more freakishly coincidental can you get!

How Much Would A Jacket Like That Cost?

Wow!!! Thanks everybody for the wonderful compliments on my first Burda shirt. That post had the most comments at once EVER! I am very happy you like it and very happy I made it.

The next item set for completion is my Tailored Red Jacket by McCall’s. I am putting the lining and the finishing touches on it now. This will definitely be just in time for the May 3rd Fashion Show (read:similar to an Elementary School Open House rather than Project Runway) at my school. I will give a complete post after its debut.

In the meantime, as I finished stitching in the lining, the following conversation popped into my head complete with the Mastercard commercial to match.

Fashion Savvy Woman: “Wow that jacket looks great. I love it! Where did you get it? I HAVE to have one!”

Me: “I made it!”, I say with a smile of pride. “It is a Peacock Chic Original” (ok, I wouldn’t say the last part, but I did in my head).

Fashion Savvy Woman: “Really?! Could you make me one? How much would a jacket like that cost?”

(Enter the Mastercard music and me looking to the sky as I have a mental flashback to making this jacket. Which, in real time, is actually right now for me)

Red Plaid Fabric….$50.00

Hand Stitched Ambiance golden tan lining…$12.00

2 Professionally made keyhole buttonholes…$6.00

10 “perfectly matched, had to have” buttons for Jacket…$50.00

Knowing that you worked on this tailored jacket for 6 months hand stitching this puppy to death and this person probably thinks they can buy it in some store in downtown L.A. for a fraction of the cost. Then looking at them smugly knowing that they cannot get THIS jacket at any store and knowing that there is no way in hell you are planning on making another just for it to go under appreciated in a closet somewhere. Then turning your back on them and whipping your hair as you turn like an America’s Next Top Model winner and proclaiming to them as you walk away…

“Priceless!”

**********************************************

**Please Note: Author of this blog is suffering from post traumatic craft disorder (PTCD) from aforementioned jacket. Symptoms of making a jacket for 6 months may include overactive imagination, excessive pride, lack of humility, irrational anger at non-sewing people, perceived poverty due to notions purchase, and excessive wearing of said garment. Beware!

Finished Object: BWOF 01-2008-125A Blouse

(See Bottom of Post for Image Gallery)

Fabric: Stretch Satin from Fabricland
Inspiration:
BWOF 01-2008-125A Blouse
Modifications:Body mods in general. Two less pintucks per sleeve due to fit issues, trimmed 3/8″ off sleeve cap top to fit in sleeve.
Enjoyment Factor:
6 – Due to inexperience only
Time:
1 week

Drum roll please…..I present to you my first Burda World of Fashion project!! I am so proud of myself for trying a BWOF pattern. I am also happy that I actually finished it so before I get started I would like to throw in a disclaimer:

  • I like this shirt
  • I like BWOF
  • I need to sew more

That said, this post unlike a lot of other is going to be more Bad and Ugly than Good. I cannot blame BWOF for everything, but it did have a hand in some “huh” moments.

The Good:

  • It is my first BWOF pattern. Did I say that already? Well who cares!! I feel as though I need to proclaim this from the highest rooftop!
  • The color of the fabric. This really made me fall in love with this pattern. It was just happenstance that I found this fabric, but it was meant to be this shirt.
  • All those darn pintucks. Love them. They were super time consuming but they are also the only thing that distinguish this from a regular old shirt. They really accentuate the puff.
  • The body of this shirt worked up pretty well. I was cruising a long with the body. I love the body. Given I could have used more room on the bottom due to my bottom and the fact that Satin shows EVERYTHING. But It is everything else that caused me to cry tears of anger and pain because pretty much everything after the body went to hell.

The Bad (Just thinking about these make me tired):

  • Sleeves. A little too tight, had to release two pintucks and reduce seam allowance to get more room in the sleeve. Note to self: read up on large upper arm alterations and maybe add some more seam allowance to this problem area.
  • The Sleeve cap. This thing was extremely weird shaped. It definitely had me saying “the what goes into where?”. In the end I had to shave off 3/8″ from the top to get it to set in right. This revelation only came after the fourth time putting in the sleeve. And, nope, it wasn’t caused by the two less pintucks because I added them back to make sure and it still didn’t fit. Given this could have been just me because Sigrid seemed to have no trouble with these at all and her tucks look smaller. I actually like the more fitted sleeve that I got and it looks like the one in the picture, but it was a bear to get there.
  • Not interfacing the buttonband. This is one of those moments where Burda obviously thinks we all have sewing common sense. I even second guessed myself and almost put it in but tried to shush the voice inside and trust in Burda. Days after I finished that part of the shirt, I notice that Burda does not say to interface any button band. Doh! Those buttonholed puckered and squirmed as I tried to stitch them. I wanted to kick myself in the head.
  • Hem depth. So I assumed a 5/8″ hem on the shirt. which for some reason turned into more of a 1″ hem in the end. Huh? Most of you seamstresses are clucking and shaking your head in disbelief. But let me sweeten the pot, I did this on Satin! STRETCH Satin. How the hell am I supposed to hem that without it looking like crap?! There is probably a magical way but since I am a newbie I tried quite a few McGyver techniques that all looked bad. So in the end Stitch Witchery won out even though I feel like a cheater but I like the look and it remains stretchy so everyone wins 🙂

The Ugly

  • Realizing that I needed to iron the back of this shirt. Good grief. Al well the fit everywhere else pretty much ironed the rest of it out. I have got to add in more adjustments on my clothes. That is… once I figure out how 🙂
  • My attitude at the end. I can’t decide if I love this shirt for how it looks or hate it for the pain it has caused. It will take me a few days but I will get over it because in the end I know that this was a learning experience that has taught me a lot. I guess BWOF equals tough love. But I am strong! I can take it. Bring it on cause I have a gazillion BWOF projects on the horizon. In fact, I have already finished tracing this little number. Muslin here we come!

In the meantime I will lick my wounds and get some knitting in. Ahhh….peaceful knitting 🙂

01-2008-125A Image Gallery

Not So Mini Me meets Burda

I have the bestest sewing friend EVER!!! She is in my tailoring class and I love going just to chat with her. We ended up picking the same pattern for the class so it has been really nice working on the same thing with her. We have very similar tastes and we end up adding to each others list of “To Dos”. We are also the same in the gadgets area. She is so gadget obsessed that she brings out the “go go gadget” in me. From rulers to chalking pens, everything she gets I have to get too. Not because I am trying to “keep up with the in crowd”, but because I have an inherent love for gadgets that I fight everyday. Kinda like an alcoholic in a bar… you can only hold out for so long.

I have to admit though that I was the pusher when it came to Burda World of Fashion Magazine. When I told her about all the goodies inside SHE…WAS…HOOKED! She already has a slew of patterns on the horizon.

So what does this have to do with “Mini Me” and Burda? Well, my bestest sewing friend EVER gave me the dressform. GAVE IT TO ME PEOPLE!! She said it looked like me. When I saw it I thought it looked chunky. Well….um….it actually measured smaller than me so I had to pad it. Dear GOD!! I need to go to the gym. So by dress form will be my sewing room helper and weight loss inspiration all in one 😯 .

Anyhoo, I decided to debut “Not So Mini Me” (new name to come soon) wearing my new first Burda pattern. It is still in the works but it is coming along. It is pattern 01-2008-126A made in up stretch satin. Love love love it actually I will reserve this statement for after I finish as love is a fickle thing. Now if I can only get the sleeves done as they are proving to be more of a challenge than I thought especially with the weird shape and all those pin tucks.

Wish me luck!