Peacock Collection ’08: BWOF 02-2008-117 Coat

Update: If you would like to see modeled pictures see this post

Coat Front View

Pattern:Burda World of Fashion 02-2008-117 Coat

Pattern Description: As lightweight as a dress … Numerous rows of smocking (that is actually quite easy to do) sculpt a feminine silhouette in the current X-line which is particularly becoming for petite women!

Pattern Sizing:
Burda sizes 17 – 21. I modified the pattern to get a size 23.
Fabric Used: black stretch cotton sateen with white cotton floral stretch fabric for accents on the collar, cuffs and hem. Both were bough at Michael Levine for $3.00 a yard. The floral fabric was the inspiration for the two color coat.

Notions Used: fusible knit interfacing, Pellon 934 Fusible Fleece, 1/4 double fold bias tape, size 10 black snaps

Time to Make: May 2-May 9 (7 days). Since I am a newbie to BWOF patterns. The instructions would throw me for a loop which made me take mental health breaks often. But ultimately it was the Hong Kong finish that consumed the majority of the time.

Coat Back View

Pattern Alterations and/or any design changes you made

  • Changed the pattern to account for a size 23. On average the difference between the 21 and 23 was about 1/2″ everywhere. I used a compass (no not the one for direction, the other one). To measure off the varied distances needed for the new size.

Coat Collar ViewCoat with Alternative Collar Styling

  • Changed the monotone coat into a duotone coat by cutting off the front facing and hem facing and adding 5/8″ seam to both sides to account for reattaching them to the coat. I also cut one side of the collar and collar band in each color. The cuffs were easy and needed no adjustments for the second color.

Hong Kong Finish Inside

  • I added Hong Kong Finishing to all the seams, except for the attachment of the second fabric at the hem and facing. I used my serger for those as I wanted small, non-bulky seams.
  • Used only 3 sets of shirring elastic around the waist because I am a bit short waisted but large bummed πŸ™‚

Coat Front with Snaps and Shirring focus

  • Used size 10 instead of the super expensive big ones. Plus I wanted more control of placement. I also think I will add 4 more snaps to run until it hits the hem as I like the structured pettycoat effect and it tends to crumple a little at the bottom without support.

Coat Side View

The Good:

  • Love the details of this coat. The top stitching is what attracted me to this coat the most. I just really like how it makes the coat stand out whether it is monotone or duo tone like mine. The cinched in waist due to the shirring coupled with the flair also gives you that super tiny waist feeling…even if it is just in your head πŸ™‚ I even like the detail of the attached snaps. It is all about the hidden treasures.

Shirring Inside

  • My gadgets! Instead of McGyvering my way through the shirring, I went all Inspector Gadget and busted out with my new “go go gadget” shirring/cording foot. I dreaded the idea of having to make sure I didn’t zigzag over the elastic and after finding out that the thin elastic sewing thread was no match for my medium to heavy weight fabric, I knew the elastic was the only way. So I ran out to my local Singer shop, plopped $10.00 down and got me that cording foot. It was a lift saver and I highly recommend it.

My label

  • I finished one of the four pieces of the mini wardrobe contest AND made my first official piece for the Peacock Chic Collection 2008! I love my new labels!

The Bad:

  • BWOF instructions were pretty good. The fact that I could understand them really mean something but some items needed some extra clarification such as:
    • attaching the cuff (see bottom of post)
    • attaching the hem facing
    • the notions used(see top of post).
  • I still need to put in the shoulder pads. I actually think the coat needs then because of the shaping in the raglan sleeve. It seems ill fitted without them. I tried to cover mine and mistakenly serged the shoulder pad into the seam thinking this was a good idea. WRONG, the added bulk makes the seem obvious through the fabric. Back to Joann’s I go to buy some more 😳

The Ugly:

Snap Closures

  • For some reason, placing those snaps thwarted me multiple times. It started to become painful at the end but now they are all fine and lined up.


I would highly recommend this pattern to anyone that wanted a very unique and stylized coat.

Tips/Tricks/Techniques (click on the pics for the details):

42 thoughts on “Peacock Collection ’08: BWOF 02-2008-117 Coat

  1. Fabulous-ness!! And gosh your new labels just set off your finished garments!

    GREAT icon techniques/links!!
    Thanks for taking the time out to do that to help others!!!
    Now that is what I am talkin’ about!!! Giving back!! :o)

  2. Another fabulous FO–Congrats! I always appreciate your project commentary. And you are so very generous with sharing the knowledge–thanks, I hope to tap into them one day!

  3. Your coat is stunning!! Your workmanship is impeccable. And the sharing of your techniques is priceless. Thank you for sharing, it made my day.

  4. That is divine! I love the color combination of the pattern and the solid. Fantastic work. And thank you for the tips. It should make my future sewing that more enjoyable. Happy Stitchin’!

  5. OMG, the fabulousness of that fierce creation! Is this why we haven’t seen you in awhile???

    BTW, I am pregs…I know, crazy!

  6. I absolutely adore this coat! Your fabric choices are superb, it’s beautifully made – I will definitely be getting that pattern and having a go myself! Divine.

  7. I found you back and I am so happy. I have you bookmarked and couldn’t find your blog in my ridiculously long list.
    I have soooo missed your blog and your wonderful sense of style and fab sense of fabrics and colours. Glad to be back here to cheer you on.

  8. That is jaw-droppingly beautiful! It’s really only been a year and a half you’ve been sewing?! I guess there’s hope for me in sewing my own clothes.

  9. Hi, Sweetie!

    Your coat is gorgeous — I love it so much!!!

    fyi — Speaking of photos reflecting your talent, I left a couple pics with Meredith for you from our fashion show.

    Can’t wait to see this beauty in person. It is absolutely one of my favorite coats — EVER.

    Love ya, girl,

  10. fabulous, monique!

    hey, i have a question for you (that you probably get asked all the time): what kind of sewing machine do you use? i’m ready for an upgrade from my ancient hand-me-down, and i was going to get a singer 7470, but i saw a few articles that siad singers are kind of sucky…. if you have any advice, i’d greatly appreciate it πŸ™‚

  11. That coat makes a statement. You have mad skills! It looks fantastic on you. And thanks for taking the time to school us on the techniques you used.

  12. Hi

    What a great coat. I’d sworn to only buy patterns to finish off the fabrics I’ve already got, but now I’m sorely tempted…

    What is the Hong Kong finish technique? Here’s hoping you’ve got a minute to share,

    Best wishes from London,

  13. Pingback: Puzzling through « ~E Made This!

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