Update: If you would like to see modeled pictures see this post
Pattern Description: As lightweight as a dress … Numerous rows of smocking (that is actually quite easy to do) sculpt a feminine silhouette in the current X-line which is particularly becoming for petite women!
Burda sizes 17 – 21. I modified the pattern to get a size 23.
Fabric Used: black stretch cotton sateen with white cotton floral stretch fabric for accents on the collar, cuffs and hem. Both were bough at Michael Levine for $3.00 a yard. The floral fabric was the inspiration for the two color coat.
Notions Used: fusible knit interfacing, Pellon 934 Fusible Fleece, 1/4 double fold bias tape, size 10 black snaps
Time to Make: May 2-May 9 (7 days). Since I am a newbie to BWOF patterns. The instructions would throw me for a loop which made me take mental health breaks often. But ultimately it was the Hong Kong finish that consumed the majority of the time.
Pattern Alterations and/or any design changes you made
- Changed the pattern to account for a size 23. On average the difference between the 21 and 23 was about 1/2″ everywhere. I used a compass (no not the one for direction, the other one). To measure off the varied distances needed for the new size.
- Changed the monotone coat into a duotone coat by cutting off the front facing and hem facing and adding 5/8″ seam to both sides to account for reattaching them to the coat. I also cut one side of the collar and collar band in each color. The cuffs were easy and needed no adjustments for the second color.
- I added Hong Kong Finishing to all the seams, except for the attachment of the second fabric at the hem and facing. I used my serger for those as I wanted small, non-bulky seams.
- Used only 3 sets of shirring elastic around the waist because I am a bit short waisted but large bummed 🙂
- Used size 10 instead of the super expensive big ones. Plus I wanted more control of placement. I also think I will add 4 more snaps to run until it hits the hem as I like the structured pettycoat effect and it tends to crumple a little at the bottom without support.
- Love the details of this coat. The top stitching is what attracted me to this coat the most. I just really like how it makes the coat stand out whether it is monotone or duo tone like mine. The cinched in waist due to the shirring coupled with the flair also gives you that super tiny waist feeling…even if it is just in your head 🙂 I even like the detail of the attached snaps. It is all about the hidden treasures.
- My gadgets! Instead of McGyvering my way through the shirring, I went all Inspector Gadget and busted out with my new “go go gadget” shirring/cording foot. I dreaded the idea of having to make sure I didn’t zigzag over the elastic and after finding out that the thin elastic sewing thread was no match for my medium to heavy weight fabric, I knew the elastic was the only way. So I ran out to my local Singer shop, plopped $10.00 down and got me that cording foot. It was a lift saver and I highly recommend it.
- I finished one of the four pieces of the Patternreview.com mini wardrobe contest AND made my first official piece for the Peacock Chic Collection 2008! I love my new labels!
- BWOF instructions were pretty good. The fact that I could understand them really mean something but some items needed some extra clarification such as:
- attaching the cuff (see bottom of post)
- attaching the hem facing
- the notions used(see top of post).
- I still need to put in the shoulder pads. I actually think the coat needs then because of the shaping in the raglan sleeve. It seems ill fitted without them. I tried to cover mine and mistakenly serged the shoulder pad into the seam thinking this was a good idea. WRONG, the added bulk makes the seem obvious through the fabric. Back to Joann’s I go to buy some more 😳
- For some reason, placing those snaps thwarted me multiple times. It started to become painful at the end but now they are all fine and lined up.
I would highly recommend this pattern to anyone that wanted a very unique and stylized coat.
Tips/Tricks/Techniques (click on the pics for the details):